Put a sock in it!
Well that few days of surf shut me up. Porthleven was host to some excellent surf & surfing and it forced me to rethink the ending of last weeks post.
I was just back home from Oahu’s North Shore and I ventured onto the beach, into the cold, grey, screaming onshore winds of a Cornish winter, the difference to Hawaii was stark as I watched wetsuit clad silhouettes lean into the rain toward the water’s edge. The waves moved slowly and relentlessly, keeping the surprising number of bodies pinned to the shoreline, only a few made it out beyond the white lines, but with little reward.
Within just days of watching Pipeline roar, the two pursuits seemed completely separate. I know England has fine surfing days, but the difference is so vast, to the point of being unrelated. However, every now and then, the conditions align bringing high quality waves to the English coast, with surfers rising to the moment, the combination showing recognisable surfing soundness.
Looking along the coast toward Rinsey Cliffs.
Across the harbour entrance.
Showing some style on the main peak.
Celebrating the perfect conditions.
Looking on from a front garden.
Here we go!
It’s not just the longer hours of daylight that hint toward the change in season. The number of boards coming through at work is increasing, this is usually an indication that, despite the persistent cold temperatures, people are thinking of launching.
Blanks, shaped blanks, shaped and sprayed blanks.
Hawaii
Pipeline looking stormy and uninviting.
Slowly making my way through the photographs from my stay on the North Shore of Oahu. There’s a touch of the ‘trawling through a holiday photo album’ about it! That’s when we sat on the beach, that’s when we ate out, this is when it started raining…etc. Perhaps an attempt to get the feeling of being there again – it kind of works and I do remember taking each shot.
After a surf at Sunset Beach.
Looking up at surfboards in the rack at Pipeline.
Backdoor Pipeline.
Going out for a surf at Rocky Point with Sunset in the background.
The best way of getting around the North Shore.
Coming over the brow at the entrance that opens to Backdoor Pipe.
